每年七、八月,当角马大迁徙的主力军踏上肯尼亚西南部的马赛马拉时,东南部海域也正迎来一群神秘的海洋巨兽——座头鲸。一边是黄土喧嚣的非洲草原,一边是蓝玉般浩渺的印度洋;一边是适者生存的惊心动魄,一边是壮阔澎湃的猛兽卖萌。角马大迁徙和座头鲸大迁徙,Humpback Whale Migration,这两场被合称为Twin Migration的大迁徙,堪称肯尼亚不容错过的“海陆双料”。
座头鲸的季节性迁徙路线十分固定,每年七、八、九月,这支跋涉了5000多公里的海上巨擎都会如期到达肯尼亚东部海域。于是前来追寻这场令人震撼的旅程,成为许多人的top 3选择之一。观鲸期有时会一直持续到十月甚至年底,在此期间,在肯尼亚的蒙巴萨、迪亚尼、马林迪、拉穆岛都有机会见到座头鲸本尊。而最佳观鲸点非海滨小镇瓦塔木(Watamu)莫属。
想要一次看完肯尼亚的“海陆双料”,你可以从内罗毕搭乘航班飞往马赛马拉,花一两天时间观赏角马大迁徙后,再前往瓦塔木观鲸。为了确保座头鲸们不受船只干扰,大多数观鲸之旅都需要资深向导的指引。故而瓦塔木小镇上的多家酒店都提供观鲸游览,只需提前预约即可。从柔软的瓦塔木海滩出发,驶过清澈的海面,坐在观鲸船上的你,看着重量级的座头鲸们突然一跃而起,再以背部入水激起巨大浪花,这将是一段让人着迷的旅途。
座头鲸的每一次迁徙,都犹如史诗般令人震撼。下次来肯尼亚瓦塔木,见证一场“鲸奇物语”,开启一段壮丽的旅程。
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